One of the most relaxing ways to enjoy Turkey’s greatest city is to do what the locals do.
The path that leads from Kabatas to Ortakoy gives a view of some impressive sites and finishes among cafes and restaurants. And it's crammed with Istanbullites whenever the sun comes out.
Tourists can easily board the modern tramway at Sultanahmet and alight at Kabatas, the terminus. From here it’s simple to head west.
On the left the cosmopolitan neighbourhoods of Cihangir and Gumussuyu lead up to Taksim while on the right the heavily-used Kabatas pier transports passengers to and from the Prince’s Islands.
Besiktas Stadium and Dolmabahce Palace
The Besiktas Inönü Stadyumu is the home of Besiktas football club. Built in the 1940s, it gives a great view across to Dolmabahce Palace and the Bosphorus. The stadium currently seats 32,000 spectators but is undergoing major renovations at present and will have an eventual capacity of 45,000.
Across from the stadium ascend the svelte minarets of Dolmabahce Mosque, built in the middle of the 19th century. The building has recently undergone extensive restoration work and can be visited.
Dolmabahce Palace
Directly in front emerges the outlandishly lavish Dolmabahce Sarayi, seat of the Ottoman administration for most of the period between 1856 and the dissolution of the sultanate. Dolmabahce is perhaps the final outburst of a moribund power, an overly-ornate blend of Baroque and Rococo style that became the largest palace in Turkey. It keeps the eyes busy.
The palace is loaded with superlatives. From its gargantuan Bohemian crystal chandelier to a brass and mahogany staircase with Baccarat crystal banisters, absolutely no detail was spared on the interior or exterior surface of a construction that required payment in 35 tons of gold.
The palace can be visited between 09h00 and 16h00 every day except Monday and Thursday.
The walk continues west along the plane tree-lined Dolmabahce Avenue, hemmed in by the walls of the palace and a leafy military installation. Mimar Sinan University leads to Besiktas, a lively neighbourhood that makes for a convenient place for a stop.
Besiktas Naval Museum and Sinan Pasha Mosque
While Besiktas cannot be thought as elegant, it buzzes with activity and is an excellent place for cheap eats. Its many streets stock well-priced home wares and household accessories and for those in the know it's the nec-plus-ultra for pirate music, films and computers games. Still no one's going to volunteer that information to a tourist.
The Sinan Pasha Mosque looks a bit hard done by among the traffic fumes and noise but has nevertheless managed to weather almost five centuries thus far. Behind the building are a number of stands selling toasted sandwiches, kebabs, fresh orange juice and tea.
Across the road, the Naval Museum presents the history of the Ottomans as seafarers with wonderful cartography, imperial armoury, naval uniforms and the galleon of Sultan Mehmed IV.
The museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday between 09h00 and 17h30, closing for one hour between 12h30 and 13h30. Monday and Tuesday the museum is closed.
Ciragan Palace and Yildiz Park
Leaving bustling Besiktas behind, the road narrows and becomes more amenable to walking.
On the right is the Ciragan Palace, built by Sultan Abdulaziz in 1863. An inferno in 1910 left nothing but the outer shell and the building was remained in ruins until purchased by a private company in 1989. It is now part of the Kempinski Hotel chain.
On the opposite side of the street is Yildiz Park, a former hunting ground of Suleiman the Magnificent and features several small palaces and pavilions. The Malta Kiosk is open to the public and serves meals and there is a couple of small tea gardens among the leafy pathways. Many Istanbullites head here on the weekend to picnic.
Ortakoy and Buyuk Mecidiye Mosque
The Grand Imperial Mosque of Sultan Abdülmecid, known simply as the Ortakoy Cami, is the focal point of this neighbourhood, presenting a view so often seen, even by those who’ve never travelled to Istanbul. With the Bosphorus Bridge towering in the background, the mosque looks decidedly delicate.
The cobbled streets around Ortakoy evoke the feeling of a village. There are plenty of cafe and restaurants serving meales for any budget and a long line of stalls serving cheap takeaway food. The latter are often a better choice since it’s easy to wander to the edge of the water, take a seat and marvel at this most majestic city.
Transport from Ortakoy
Buses run frequently from Ortakoy to the Kabatas ferry pier, or up to the Taksim Metro stop. The display above the driver's head will state the destination.
At weekends traffic can be horrendously slow in any direction from Otrakoy. Those who insist on taking a cab may need ample patience. It’s likely the taxi driver will take a circuitous route back to Sultanahmet. However it’s also likely to be the sole way to escape the tangled snarl of vehicles and, for a few extra dollars, it’s well worth it.
James Heywood - James Heywood has worked in education, banking and finance, hospitality and publishing. He completed his tertiary education in ...
Join the Conversation