The Ottoman fort has given its name to the surrounding area that is certainly worth exploring.
It’s possible to take a delicious Sunday buffet breakfast at Dogatepe Restaurant high up on the hill, where the view across to the Asian side of Istanbul and up the Bosphorus is a photographer’s dream.
Sated and satisfied, the visitor has only to navigate the steep incline down stairs and laneways until arriving on the foreshore at the entrance to the fortress, just a short walk from and the excellent Sakip Sabanci Museum.
Getting to Rumeli Hisari and Dogatepe Restaurant
Bus number 43R leaves directly across from the tramway stop at Findikli. Findikli is just four stops from Sultanahmet. 43R displays “Rumeli Hisarüstü” which translates as "Above Rumeli Fortress".
Alighting at the terminus, the view on a sun-drenched day is breathtaking. Dogatepe Restaurant is not well sign-posted yet it’s easily accessible to the right of the bus terminus.
On Sunday the restaurant serves one of the best Turkish breakfasts to be had. The standard cornucopia is presented in a buffet; tomato, cucumber, cheese, cold meats, jam, honey, bread and eggs are available for the taking. Waiters ensure strong Turkish tea is on the table at all times.
Rumeli and Anadolu Hisari
From Dogatepe’s outdoor seating area Rumeli Fort rises up from the Bosphorus. The citadel was built at the narrowest point of the strait in the unbelievable time of under five months.
Sultan Mehmed II, declining an offer of peace from the Byzantine Emperor Constantine XI, had his eyes on the glittering prize that would see bring about the Conquest of Constantinople.
Rumeli Hisari and the smaller, earlier built Anadolu Hisari facilitated the end of an Empire. The citadel certainly lived up to its original name of “Bogazkesen’, or “Strait Cutter”, as it succeeded in blocking supplies to weakening Byzantium. Less than two years after its construction, the Ottomans took possession of Constantinople on May 29, 1453. Byzantium was no more.
Rumeli Hisari is can be accessed from the foreshore. It opens from 09h30 to 16h00 each day except Wednesday.
Sakip Sabanci Museum’s Calligraphy and Painting
The Sakip Sabanci Museum is the most elegantly and stylishly designed cultural complex in Istanbul. The mansion houses a fabulous collection of antique furnishing, Islamic calligraphy, Chinese and European porcelain and several hundred paintings from Ottoman times to the Republican era.
The calligraphy collection is notable and spans five centuries. A fabulous selection of the calligrapher’s tools is displayed along with Qur’ans and Ottoman Imperial documents, seals and declarations. For anyone interested in this striking art form, it’s an opportunity to see a wider collection of just religious texts in Arabic.
At present the exhibition “Love by Any Other Name”, a look at Istanbul and Venice during Ottoman times, runs until 28 February 2010.
The museum opens from Tuesday to Sunday from 10h00 to 18h00, except Wednesday when it remains open until 20h00.The museum is closed on Monday.
The museum is also closed 1 January and the first day of religious holidays.
Admission for adults is 10 lira and for children, 7 lira. There is no charge for children under 14 accompanied by an adult.
Müzedechanga Restaurant at Sabanci Museum
After its successful appearance on Cihangir’s food scene some years ago, the team that installed the original Changa in the cavernous, concrete chasm of Siraselviler Avenue opted from lush, emerald green foliage for Müzedechanga the second time around.
“Changa at the Museum” is an international-standard dining experience. It’s the place to watch the moon rise over cypresses as moonlight beams gently over rippling Bosphorus waves.
Clearly influenced by its artistic surroundings, the Müzedechanga’s website allows a photographic journey through the entire menu, as well as the ability to make essential reservations.
Müzedechanga is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10h30 to 01h00, and closed on Monday.
Telephone +90 212 323 0901
Getting Back From Rumeli Hisari
It’s unlikely those who've descended the hill will want to ascend it again. No problem. Numerous buses run from stops on the foreshore, terminating at Kabatas or Taksim. From Kabatas it’s simple to board the tram and head back to Sultanahmet.
A taxi from Rumeli Hisari is feasible, but passengers need to accept that during heavy traffic the driver will surely take a circuitous route to escape the foreshore. It will cost a few extra lira and will get passengers out of gridlock.
James Heywood - James Heywood has worked in education, banking and finance, hospitality and publishing. He completed his tertiary education in ...
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