Istanbul, once under the name of Constantinople, was like many urban agglomerations of its time, fortified by massive walls and imposing watchtowers that acted as entrance and exit for merchant, pilgrims and invader alike.
Though Constantinople’s initial wall construction was ordered by Emperor Constantine, it is the fifth-century Theodosian fortifications that still stand tall today, despite time’s wear and tear.
In a line stretching from the Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara, the walls withstood numerous sieges and battles. Crusaders and Arab attackers were unable to break though the defence, yet time has taken its toll.
Getting to the Walls
The most impressive approach to the fortifications is to see them from afar. Walking from Eyup is a slow but imaginative method to picture how imposing the fortifications would have appeared to those living outside the city.
The green 99 bus leaving from the terminus at the southern end of Galata Bridge will drop passengers close to where the land walls began on the Golden Horn. From here it’s possible to follow the road up until a large gate becomes visible.
A group of shrines is perpetually attended by an old gentleman atop a stool, contemplating his surroundings. The broad, arched entranceway leaves enough room for modern motor vehicles to exit, so it pays to be cautious before walking through.
Atikmustafapasa Neighbourhood
This is Atikmustafapasa, a neighbourhood with higgledy-piggledy dwellings that looks ready to blow over in a strong gale. Housing here is functional and ornamentation is all but absent. Most constructions look like a muddle of ramshackle additions over time rather than a thought out, series of planned stages.
Still, touches of love here and there give immense character to the district. Plastic flowers, hand-made laced curtains and half-finished brightly painted walls enliven the scene.
While a smile may be half-heartedly returned from an adult, it’s not unusual for a few curious young boys to follow outsiders, the former repeatedly shouting proudly the rote learning of obligatory English lessons. If they spot a camera, it’s likely they’ll insist on a photo with you, then quickly lose interest and return to football or cops-n-robbers.
Kariye Muzesi
Now a museum, formerly a mosque and originally built as "Church of the Holy Saviour in the Country" or "Church of St Saviour in Chora", the structure sat outside the Constantinian Walls. It became encompassed by the Theodosian fortifications some years later, though it was many centuries until it was incorporated into the urban landscape.
Half a century after the Fall of Constantinople, the church was converted to a mosque and its many frescoes and mosaics hidden behind a layer of plaster, in accordance with Muslim prohibition of icons.
No longer a place of worship, today the museum is considered one of the finest examples of a Byzantine church, its magnificent artworks once again on display after ten year’s restoration work in the middle of last century.
Mosaics and Frescoes
Small booklets are available at the museum bookstore explaining the tale of marvellously detailed and intricate mosaics. Scenes of the Nativity, the journey of the Magi, John the Baptist, Jesus, the Virgin Mary and various saints crowd the narthex and domes. Sunlight gleams off tiny tiles but there is an odd eeriness in a building that is completely devoid of other religious furnishings.
Excellent, multilingual guides can offer short, informative tours and are generally waiting outside the museum entrance, which is via the garden on the building’s western side.
Tea in the Square and Dinner at Asithane
The museum faces a square with the regular, stock-standard Turkish tea, Nescafe and toasted sandwiches.
For a more memorable dining experience, Asithane offers Ottoman dishes that bring the imperial kitchens to life. In spring and summer al fresco dining under shade is the norm and there are alternate winter and summer menus
Best of all, it’s a great place to experience “iftar”, the nightly breaking of the Ramadan fast. As the call to prayer sounds, conversation immediately ceases as the clinking of knives and forks announce the serious business of getting down to eating.
Getting Back to Sultanahmet
If there is still daylight and a desire to walk, it’s easy to continue strolling down through different neighbourhoods until the Golden Horn becomes visible after half an hour. Eminonu is another half hour away, heading east.
The 99 Eminonu bus stops every hundred or so metres along the and drops passengers about 200m west of the Spice Bazaar. Naturally, those dining at Asithane can rely on a taxi service to get back to the hotel.
James Heywood - James Heywood has worked in education, banking and finance, hospitality and publishing. He completed his tertiary education in ...
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